Ste. Genevieve to St. Louis, 42 miles? 64 mile?

This was one of the best days of riding so far--we traveled the Bluff road along, well, the bluffs, of course! The scenery was magnificent, the weather was....well, mostly great....the route was flat. The route sheet left much to be desired. We spent a lot of time stopping and trying to figure out where we were. Anne from Fargo drove the SAG wagon today, and she was running like crazy to keep track of us and help us figure out where we should REALLY be turning! The route was also 13 miles longer than planned, and that meant that some of us got caught in a rainstorm about ten miles from the finish. Oops.

We got soaked, but at least the lightning wasn't cracking near us. The women who beat the storm by minutes said the lightning was wild around the hotel, so we were really quite fortunate.
This lovely photo is of me, pedaling, and was taken by me, while pedaling! I am still trying to figure a way to get my photos to Annie for the website. Nothing seems to work!

Happy trails,

Dusty

Cape Girardeau to Ste. Genevieve, MO, May 26

After nearly 900 miles of mostly flat terrain, we finally had a day of hills! Sixty-five miles of hills! Jackie called them "gently rolling hills". Hah! Jackie owns Woman Tours and has a talent for marketing. She is with us for a few days while our primary guide, Laurie, is on vacation. (Michelle, our fantastic cook, has gone off for a month long vacation, so Linda has taken her place. She's brand new at this job, and has big shoes to fill, but dinner was tasty tonight, so I don't think we'll go hungry!)

Back to the "gently rolling hills" Jackie mentioned. They were rolling, and for that I am grateful, but they were not all that gentle. Judy and I (and a whole lot of the other ladies) really struggled in the morning. We just couldn't seem to get our legs working. However, after a stop for pie and ice cream in Perryville, I thought maybe I should get a tee shirt made that says "POWERED BY PIE". I felt much, much better. (I'm not speaking for Judy).

Things were zooming along until we suddenly dropped out of the hills, down a long, steep, lovely hill, and found ourselves on the flat land in a headwind. Aw, no big deal, it wasn't much of a headwind. Then we rounded a corner. Then we looked ahead and saw trees and a road, rising out of the flatland and up, up, up, up......

We hoped it would turn out to be another road. Surely, it couldn't be our road!

Alas, the hill was soon before us. We stopped for a moment to use the grassy green facilities and to ponder the task before us. "Let's just live here," I suggested. "Right there in the meadow. We can build a little cottage."

We decided against that option. We also decided against returning to Perryville for more pie. (Maybe the strawberry-rhubarb would get me up the hill...?) Instead, we headed for the hill. And made it. Later, I met with disbelief when I said that the recumbent had made it up the hill, but it did, under pedal power. I even had to stop 2/3rds of the way up to pick up my water tube. At least, I think it was on that hill. Hard to say, they all began to run together.

At the top of the hill, Judy eyed the Subaru with lust in her eyes, but we did some fast-talking and persuaded her to get in those last eleven miles. She did it, too, and was still standing the last time I saw her!

It was a lot of fun to have John with me, and a luxury, because he drove me downtown to see historic Ste. Genevieve. I so rarely get to see the towns, so I really loved being able to do that.

Once again, I didn't take many pictures, but John waited for us in town and took pictures as we biked in. The chick on the funny looking bike is me. The chick in the yellow jersey is Judy, who hails from Edmonton, Alberta, Canada. And I am very sleepy. Tomorrow, we can't catch the ferry to Illinois (enroute to St. Louis) until 9:00, so breakfast isn't until 8:00. Sleeping in, yippee! Goodnight!

Charleston to Cape Girardeau, MO, May 25

This was a great day, not only because it was only about 50 miles, AND we had tailwinds again, AND it was flat again, but also because I had a visitor. John drove out to see me, after visiting Car Henge and Chimney Rock in Nebraska (the start of the Oregon Trail). He showed me photos of both. I'm only interested in seeing one in person!

The murals in "the Cape" as the locals call the town, are quite impressive, and the town itself is charming. John and I had dinner at the Royal N'Orleans. I didn't take any pictures, as I didn't want to waste any time getting to town to see John, but John took some, and he has a much better camera with him.

Judy and I rode as fast as we could all day, so we arrived before John and went straight to the bike shop. It doesn't bode well for Bike Friday that the only cyclists in the shop for repairs were three of the four Bike Friday riders. However, the bicycle shop was great. The staff was great and even the customers were helpful. With the help of Larry (a local cyclist who offered us rides back to the hotel and joined us for dinner) and another customer, I got my seat adjusted properly so now my leg doesn't hurt. Thanks to the bike shop guys, my brakes work again! I bought a new pack for the bike, as I was tired of playing pack mule (and replaced my BRAND NEW jacket that I bought for the trip--the zipper broke the second time I wore it). Now, instead of a rack and panniers and a hyrdation pack, I have just one pack with everything in it. Of course it was made to hang on a person's back, not on the back of a recumbent seat, so I spent some time figuring out how to strap it to the bike. (Thank God for the StrapAll velcro straps that I use for just about everything!)

It was great to have John here, and I slept better than I've slept for the entire trip. Felt almost like home!

Dyersburg, TN to Charleston, MO, May 24

Reel Foot Lake and Rueben Bennet were the highlights of the day. Reel Foot Lake was created when an earthquake hit the area in the early 1800s (sorry, I am too lazy to dig out the fact sheet). The quake went on for several weeks and when it was all over, a new lake was born. The cyprus trees you see in the picture grow in the lake, all around the perimeter. It was a misty day, the lake was dark and a bit eerie and mysterious. We saw turtles as we strolled on the boardwalk that took us down to the lake--and over the lake. A heron stood in a quiet grove of Cyprus, and didn't move a muscle as I watched and waited.

In Mississippi, a lot of the corn is already tall enough to function as an emergency "little biker's" room, while some fields are just a few inches tall. By the time we crossed from Tennesse to Kentucky to Missouri, the corn was perhaps knee high. I guess "Knee high by the Fourth of July" is a meaningless benchmark down here.

Rueben Bennet from Dorena Missouri joined us on the ferry ride that took us from the Kentucky side of the river to the Missouri side. He told me that sweet corn will be ready in June, but field corn will take longer. Rueben and his wife ran the little corner store you see in this picture. Rueben is a WWII Air Force veteran. He served in the Pacific theatre, but also spent a lot of time driving equipment from Montana to Ellworth Air Force Base in Rapid City! He told me that his war experiences were valuable, but he sure wouldn't want to do it again. Rueben was fishing this morning on Reel Foot Lake, and when he left the ferry he rode home quickly and told me he'd be outside his house waving as we went by.

I forgot to stop and have my picture taken at the "Welcome to Missouri" sign. I guess I got so excited about the tailwinds I just couldn't stop pedaling! After a couple of miles, when I couldn't see any other bikers coming (most are much faster than I), I turned around and headed back, thinking I had missed a turn. Soon enough, I saw Patty G. heading my way. Of course, they had all had the good sense to stop at the sign for the obligatory state crossing photo.

Soon enough, I pedaled by Rueben's corner store, and true to his word, there he was with his dog, waiting for us. I said one last goodbye to my new friend and went on my way. Tailwinds and flat as a pancake all the way to Charleston!

Zamaya, Future WomanTours Customer (still May 23rd)

Goodness, I almost forgot to put a picture of Zamaya on the website. The bikers met her in Henning, after touring the Alex Haley museum. She and her little brother were out for a little ride (he was in a stroller) with

Grandma and Grandpa. Sorry the picture isn't so good. (Grandma, if you send me an address on the comment section, I can probably make the picture bigger and send it to you!)

Zamaya really loved our bikes and she didn't seem to think we were too crazy. Grandpa was sure she would remember all those biking ladies for a long time. I gave her and her brother each a Wounded Warrior Project bracelet (I'm almost out) and a sticker.

Didn't get to talk to any other kids today. This was the day that all the men liked my bike and thought it looked too easy--I should have let THEM try to peddle it up a hill. There is more about today's ride on the previous blog!

Happy trails

Dusty

May 23, Covington to Dyersburg Tennessee, 45 miles

Today we stopped in Henning, which is the childhood home of Alex Haley--we stood in the very kitchen where Haley first heard the stories of his ancestors, told by his grandma and his aunties. The mayor led the tour, after we talked a guy in town into calling him and asking him to open up early for us. He said he would, but he didn't show up until 10:00, the usual opening time. Patty says that is early--southern time means that the 10:00 opening wouldn't have happened until 10:30 anyhow.

John, maybe you shouldn't read the rest of this post. Just bring a little pet carrier with you when you come to see me.

Okay, don't tell John, but I met this great little black lab, Sally Sue, and her Mom, Shirley, and when Shirley wasn't looking I slipped Sally Sue in my bike bag. Shirley found Sally Sue on her road, tossed out by someone, about six inches long, barely born, didn't even have teeth yet, scared and nearly starved to death. Shirley took her in and now she's happy and healthy and loved as much as a puppy can be loved.

Today was the second prettiest ride so far. Yesterday was the prettiest! Well, wait a minute, there's the Natchez Trace, that was awfully pretty. Oh, lets face it, its such a beautiful country, how can you pick the best?

Anyway, had a good ride, lines are long for the computer, so I'll hand the computer over to Linda P.

Happy trails,

Dusty

May 22, Memphis to Covington, Mississippi, 63 miles

I guess you can tell how I spent my day today! Actually, the picture is at the END of the day. I spent a couple of hours fixing all the little problems that aggravated me during the day. Luckily, none of them involved major delays, and I had a great ride. And a long shower.

The folks that live betwen Memphis and Covington sure do like dogs. Or, they like to own dogs. Some of them were confined in fenced yards, but way too many had obviously been trained from birth to chase down cyclists. I was most fortunate to be riding with Judy N. from Canada, who carries a mean self-defense whistle. Stops those snarling mutts in their tracks!

These folks are also fond of horses. We really enjoyed them, especially the palomino draft horses and the lovely appaloosas. I have pictures, but for some reason they won't download right now.

The terrain was rolling hills and more shade trees even than in Minnesota lake country. I have never seen such beautiful trees as I see in the south, with canopies that provide shade to an entire house. Shelby Forest was incredible. All in all, a fine day, in spite of the aggravating bike adustments.

Tomorrow will be a short day, with plenty of time for a tour of Alex Haley's home. Now I have to get off the computer, others are waiting!

Happy trails!

Dusty

May 19-20-21, Clarksdale to Memphis Tennessee

Folks are waiting for the computer, so one quick blog and I'm off. We biked 62 miles to Clarksdale, then 91 to Memphis the next day. That was a lot of miles in three days, so we are plenty tired, but we rested today in Memphis.

In Louisianna, the men all called me 'baby', as in "Aw Baby, you can't bike that far" and "Oh, baby, whats your husband doing all this time?" The women and children all say "Maam". Even the teenagers, even when there isn't a grownup listening!

That continued in Southern Mississippi, but as we headed north, the kids didn't say "Maam" as often and the women call me "Baby" too!

Yesterday I stopped in a little town and asked some young boys on bicycles where I could find the grocery where I was supposed to meet the others. One boy offered to take me there, so we biked along together and they stayed and talked for quite a while. The boys all want to know where I got my funny bike and did it cost a lot of money. They are all so sweet.

We were warned to be careful coming into Memphis, as we would be going through an unsavory neighborhood, but guess what? A lot of people still waved, the men all called out that they liked my bike, and no one bothered us. I sure wish I had time for more thoughtful writing, but I don't, so that will have to do for now!

May 18, Vicksburg to Indianola, Mississippi--THE BIG ONE!

I CAN'T BELIEVE I BIKED THE WHOLE THING!

Yup, 109 miles, long miles, in headwinds! Flat, true, but boy did that wind slow us down. The great thing is that at the end of the day, I felt okay! Tired, but not particularly sore and still smiling! Judy and I were the last ones in. A few sagged, but most did the whole thing, and no matter how many miles we went, we deserved our applause.

Here's an example of the fine facilities we've found along the way!

After we showered and put on our street clothes, we staggered to the Wendy's, and several of us were in there eating, laughing, and rejoicing. As we were leaving, a woman walked up and asked us what we were doing. We told her about our trip and she said, "Oh, I just knew ya'll were doing something fun, just by the way you were lauging!" We've noticed that the women think the trip sounds great. Men just think we are crazy!

May 17, Rest Day, Vicksburg

I've had to accept the sad truth, that I am not going to do much sightseeing on this trip! I spend so much time pedaling, working on the bike, eating and sleeping, that there is little time left over to explore the towns we travel through. We had a rest day in Vicksburg, so I spent the morning cleaning my bicycle after the prior day's rain. I learned from my more experienced cycling friends that it is wise to frequently check the tires for slits and bits of glass and stone. I found several on my tire, so I picked out the sharp stuff and filled in the holes with rubber cement! Then I explored quaint downtown Vicksburg. We had fried green tomatoes and fried green pickles at Rusty's. Clark, a southerner born and bred, pronounced the fried green tomatoes the best she has ever eaten! They were my first, and they were delicous.

I also loved the murals that have been painted on the levee. The artist was painting one while we were there, and it is quite a process. I didn't get out to the battlefield, just wandered the town and wandered back.

Then I had the real treat of the day; I took a cab to New Health Chiropractic for a massage (thanks Lucy). After which I stopped in and did one 'round' at Curves, where I found Curves Divas are just as nice as Meandering Mississippi divas. I was walking back to the hotel (a long walk), when Lucy and her little dog Daisy came by, and they gave me a ride 'home'!

All in all, a good way to 'prep' for the big day....107 miles tomorrow, to Indianola, Mississippi!

May 16, Vicksburg, MS, via the Natchez Trace!!!

This was the day I've been waiting for! We traveled to Vicksburg via the Natchez Trace! We were on the trace for about 60 miles, and what a treat. It was as beautiful as I had hoped and I loved every minute of it...well, almost every minute. When we biked out of Natchez and hit the trace, I suddenly felt like my legs had given up. I could barely pedal that bike! I got off a couple of times to see if my brakes were rubbing--I'd been having some brake trouble a couple of days earlier. It took me forever to get to the first stop--I was slogging along at eight or nine miles an hour and if the scenery hadn't been so lovely I would have been miserable. There were a half dozen women or so at the rest stop, and they started to pull out. A few minutes later, I joined the last few and was pulling out when I noticed that my tire was low on air. Oh, oh...very low! I had a slow leak and had probably been biking on almost no air all morning. You'd think I'd know enough to check the tires when the bike was sluggish.

After we changed the tire, I headed out and I was a rocket. Instead of 9 mph I was biking along at 15, 16, 20 mph! And, though it took me 20 miles, I eventually caught up with all those women that had left from the rest stop just before my flat tire!

We got a really good rainstorm today, but no lightning, and it was warm enough to keep us comfortable. Today was an 82 mile day. No wait, Laurie said it was going to be more like 84. Ooops, sorry, turns out it was 87. And the last several miles were plenty hilly. All in all, though, I feel really good. I have a few moments here and there where I wonder how I'll get up that next hill, but I've finished every day feeling strong. Now...ask me how I feel after 107 miles on Friday! Oh, forgot to mention, this was margarita night...seems WomanTours provides margaritas every time we cross into another state! I can live with that. Tomorrow is a day with options; I'm opting out of biking!

May 15th, Rest Day, Natchez

The Briar's Inn in Natchez is big and beautiful, on an enormous hill overlooking the river. They were not prepared for all these women and bicycles, but they graciously called in reinforcements and took grand care of us. We were pretty happy to have our luggage carried to our rooms for us! What luxury! We met Emily and Winston, the St. Bernard's that live in the very big house next door.

We took a carriage ride and tour of the town with James, and later on took the bus down to, well, eat, eat, and eat some more at Biscuits and Blues. There's Edith---with an awful lot of food for one tiny little woman! The food was hearty! Gumbo and catfish We had a couple of hearty thunderstorms in Natchez too. So far, very little rain while on the bike, but some wild storms. Here's another picture of the whole crowd...doing Sunday, 85 miles to New Roads from Donaldsonville, along the way Clark, Stephanie and I met a great family in Placquemine. Curtis Gooze, Brandon and Robert gave us water and barbeque! It was Mother's day, and Curtis was getting ready to feed whoever happened by...and that turned out to be us. We ate and then he insisted on sending us off with ziplock bags full of more food! Yikes, made for a long but grand day.what? Eating, of course!

May 14th, New Roads to Natchez - Mississippi!

Some Mother's Day! This crazy bike tour company made us ride 85 miles to New Roads--on our bicycles! Along the way Clark, Stephanie and I met a great family in Placquemine. Curtis Gooze, Brandon and Robert gave us water and barbeque! It was Mother's day, and Curtis was getting ready to feed whoever happened by...and that turned out to be us. After we sampled a little of this and a little of that, Mr. Gooze insisted on sending us off with ziplock bags full of more food! Stops like that are what the trip is all about! Unfortunately, they also make the day very long. We were pretty tired when we got done, but man, that barbeque was tasty!

May 13th, Mother's Day, Donaldsonville to New Roads, LA

I met Bobby and Smitty at a gas station just north of Laura's Plantation. They were typical of the folks I've met along the road...helpful, friendly, and concerned for our safety. Also, I've noticed the men are all wondering what my husband is doing while I'm gone! Smitty and Cheryl from the LaPlace Best Western win the prize for most accurately predicting today's mileage. The prize is, of course, our undying gratitude. Today was 47 miles, good weather, flat terrain, minor headwinds. Laura's Plantation was the amazing and the tour was the best I've ever been done...Laura's is a Creole Plantation. If you are thinking Scarlet O'Hara and Rhett Butler, think again! This was a fascinating place. Norman, the owner, urged us to urge all our friends to visit. They need to pay for the major renovations they made after 80% of the plantation building burned down. This place is well worth a visit.

Tomorrow and the next day are 85 mile jaunts. I probably won't write again until the rest day in Natchez. I am so excited to bike the Natchez trace after the rest day!
Bye for now, and happy trails,

Dusty

May 11th, La Place, Best Western Hotel

You can't beat the hospitality in the South, and our hotel in LaPlace was fantastic! There is nothing fancy about the Best Western in LaPlace, but you couldn't ask for better service. We were greeted with little baskets filled with goodies like fruit and cereal bars. Cheryl at the front desk (that's Cheryl in the middle, I wrote down the other ladies names but can't find them now!) seemed happier to see us than we were to be there, and that was going some. The LaPlace was just about the friendliest place I've been--remember it if you ever get down this way!

May 10th and 11th, New Orleans to LaPlace, Louisiana

We spent orientation day (and much of the previous day) getting our bicycles adjusted at Bicycle Michaels. (And eating!) Tim, the mechanic there, had his hands full, with women in and out, interrupting him every five minutes and second-guessing his adjustments. Hey, we were nervous. These bicycles have to carry us 2000 miles over the next 40 days. Of course, we couldn't leave the shop without investing in new jerseys! We're showing them off here while we wait for the ferry to take us to our starting point, eight miles north of New Orleans. Left to right, Jan B, Patty G, Dusty, and Linda P. This was a 37 mile day, pretty easy!